Wine Varietals: The Basics

The first decision you have to make when drinking wine is whether you want red or white wine. ( I already covered the topic of red or white in another blog). Once the decision of red or white is made, you then need to decide on the varietal you want to drink.

Varietal refers to the kind of grape a wine is made with and by law 75% of a wine needs to be made with a particular grape varietal for the wine to be classified as that varietals on it's label. Some wines are single varietal and many wines are a blend of several varietals.

In the United States, the most common white wine varietals are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. For red wine Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel are the most common. So, how do you decide between these varietals?

Chardonnay which originated in Burgandy France can be oaked or unoaked. It's typically the most complex and heaviest of white wines and depending on the amount it is oaked can have a vanilla or buttery taste. If Chardonnay is unoaked then it will have a more fruity flavor. Chardonnay is usually good with Fish or Chicken and can stand up to sauces as it usually has some acidity which gives it complexity. Of the white varietals Chardonnay can be cellared the longest.

Sauvignon Blanc is generally a lighter, crisper wine, it can be citrusy, grassy, herbaceous and even have some minerality to it depending on where it is made. Sauvignon Blanc is nice to drink on a hot summery day on it's own or with appetizers and goes quite well with fish or seafood.

Riesling typically is sweet and floral with apple, peach, pear or apricot flavors but depending on where it is made it can be dry and have minerality and even oily petroleum flavors. Riesling is best enjoyed with spicy food or as a dessert wine.

Gewurztraminer is an aromatic and perfumy floral wine often with some hints of honeysuckle. It's typically sweet and is a good contrast for spicy food especially Chinese, Thai or Indian.

Merlot is typically a medium bodied red wine. It can be fruity or herbaceous and typically does not have big tannins. Merlot is good to drink on its own and is lush and fruity. It's typically mellow but can have complexity. Merlot is easy to drink and is good for people just starting to enjoy red wine although there are some delicious and well crafted bold Merlots that even well versed wine drinkers will enjoy. I am partial to Merlot grown on rocky hillsides such as Howell Mountain in Napa.

Syrah is a rich dark red with lots of tannins. It is typically smoky, spicy and peppery with some fruit. It is known as Shiraz in Australia and is best enjoyed with lamb and wild game

Pinot Noir is generally a smooth velvety wine. It's full bodied and rich but is not acidic or tannic. It's generally one of the harder grapes for vitners to cultivate and therefore it can be pricey. Pinot Noir has lots of complexity and can be enjoyed alone or with salmon, swordfish, lamb, chicken or even beef. It's best with simple non-saucy and unspicy dishes It can have a cherry berry taste or a dry earthy leathery taste

Cabernet Sauvignon is big rich and bold with lots of tannins that give it depth and complexity. It is typically meant to be aged and is a grape mostly appreciated by regular wine drinkers because of its high tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon typically has flavors of currant and red fruit with vanilla oaky overtones but it can also be smoky or earthy.

Zinfandel is a big bold fruity spicy dark red purply wine. It is usually very high in alcohol content and is meant to be enjoyed with hearty food.

The best way to determine which varietals you like is to taste them and see. You must keep in mind though that the food you are eating can change the flavor of the wine. In addition, you need to realize that wines from different countries and also different regions have different tastes. So, for example, you may like a Pinot Noir from Oregon in the Willamette family which is usually fruity and cherry berry and not one from the California Russian River Valley which may be less fruity and more oaky and leathery.

Weather, soil, where the grapes are from and the way the grapes are harvested and blended can all impact their flavor. Also there can be a variance based on price. So before you rule out a varietal make sure you taste several wines from different regions by different producers at different price points to determine which ones you have a preference for and which ones you don't especially like.

There are no right and wrong answers when it comes to wine. The key is to find what you like and then to drink it. Salut!

Golden Glass Wine Tasting

The Golden Glass Wine Tasting was held in SF this past Saturday 6/12/10. The annual event is sponsored by Slow Food an organization that promotes the pleasure of food and wine and recognizes restaurants and food and wine producers who utilize sustainable, biodynamic and organic practices. The food which included among other things goat sliders, pizza, salmon tartare on cucumber & tuna on bruschetta was all delicious and a great compliment to the wonderful and diverse wines.

The event has been in existence for 7 years and used to just be Italian wines. Italian procuders were invited to showcase their wines and 3 glasses or "tre bicchieri" were awarded to the best wines. A few years ago the event was expanded to include wines from New Zealand, Spain and France, Argentina and this year for the first time there were also California wines.

While I did taste some of the wines from outside of Italy, I chose to focus primarily on the Italian wines because it is the one time of year many producers come over from Italy to showcase their wines and it a great opportunity to try wines from Northern, Central and Southern Italy, many of which are only available in Italian restaurants and are not available for direct sale.

Since I lived in Italy and speak Italian, for me the event is a wonderful opportunity to talk to producers in Italian about their wines. What I find very refreshing with Italians and Italian winemakers and producers is the lack of pretense. Italians love wine and drink a lot of it. For Italians the key is to like what you are drinking and to enjoy drinking it.

While things have become a bit more commercial over the years in the wine business in Italy, it still seems that Italians have managed not to lose focus on the taste and enjoyment of wine and what's in their glass. In talking to those affiliated with the various wineries it is quite apparent that they love what they do and in fact many of their families have been making wine for generations.

Azienda Agr. La Montecchina for example has been bottling wine since 1200. They follow the cycles of the moon and have been involved in sustainable and natural processes for centuries, way before it became trendy. Located in the Veneto in the Colli Euganie, their Fior D'Arancio Spumante 2009 is a sparkling Muscato at around $19 that has a nice flavor with hints of orange. It is quite sweet and meant to be enjoyed as a dessert wine. This was my favorite muscato at the tasting and there actually were quite a few to try.

Ruggeri had a Gold Label Valdobbiadene Proseco Superior Extra Dry that was also quite good and at $14 a bottle a great value for a sparkling wine. The Ruggeri Gold Label Proseco is a light and delicate sparkling wine that starts out creamy then fills the mouth with fruity flavors. It has just the right amount of bubbles and is not sweet but dry. This sparkling wine can be enjoyed with appetizers or on it's own for a before dinner apperitivo and is at a great price point.

As far as white wines, the Le Merietttaie Offidea Pecorino 2008 from Ciu Ciu Vini in Le Marche and the Viognier "Le Vigne" 2008 from Tenuta San Rocco were my favorites. The Pecorino from Chi Cui at $14 a bottle not only has a fun name but it is organic. It has a nice floral aroma but tastes crisp, fruity and is well balanced with a nice acidity. The Viognier from Tenuta San Rocco is 85% Viognier and 15% white muscat. At $13 a bottle the Le Vigne is a nice light summery white wine and the white muscat gives it an interesting finish.

My favorite reds were from opposite ends of Italy, the 2007 Fumin from La Crotta Di Vengneron Valle D'Aosta in the far north of Italy in Piemonte and the Centorame Castellum Vetus Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Colline Teramane 2006 from the south of Italy 50 miles east of Rome. The 2007 La Crotta Di Vengneron Fumin Valle D. Aosta at $28 is big and bold but well rounded with a smooth finish. This wine is hand harvested and fermented with natural yeast. The Centorame Castellum Vetus Montepulciano D' Abruzzo Colline Teramane 2006 at $35 a bottle is a very very big red with a lot of complexity, tannins but some big ripe fruit flavors.

If you want unpretentious, good wine made in the old world style then I suggest you give Italian wine a chance. With Italian wine you can often find good and unique wines at a nice value. My recommendation is that you make sure to enjoy Italian wines with food though because in Italy wine is meant to be savored with family and friends and enjoyed with food. This is in fact the whole premise of the Slow Food Movement, the sponsors of Golden Glass, to encourage the enjoyment of food and wine thru the use of "good, clean, fair" methods in their production to promote sustainability. So be sure to stop, smell the roses, fill a glass with some Italian wine, relax, cook up a nice meal, drink, eat and enjoy!

TAPAS

On Sat June 5th I attended the TAPAS tasting at Fort Mason in SF. The tasting focused on Spanish and Portugese varietals and had wines from California, Oregon and even Arizona. In addition to Spanish and Portugese varietals there was paella, oysters and tapas.

Since I am not a big fan of Tempranillo, I decided to focus on white wines but I then later turned my attention to some delicious red blends and 2 new varietals to me Tannat and Graciano.

Spanish and Portugese white varietals consist of Albarino, Grenache Blanc and Verdelho. Albarino is typically a light wine with very high acidity. It's good to drink on a hot summer day but in my opinion is better enjoyed with food to cut the acidity. Grenache Blanc on the other hand is light and low in acidity. It's crisp, tart and refreshing. Often used as part of a blend in French Rhone Varietals and thought to be a Rhone varietal it actually originated in Spain and is a great varietal in it's own right.

The following were my favorite whites at the tasting:

The 2009 Grenache Blanc from D'Alfonso-Curran Wines in the Santa Ynez valley was lush, creamy and tart. It tasted like a juicy green apple and was very refreshing. At $22 a bottle it's a wine to consider when you want to go for something tasty and out of the ordinary.

The 2009 Bonny Doon Vinho Grinho from Sant Cruz at $20 a bottle is a blend of 56% Albarino and 44% Loureiro. A biodynamically made wine, it's crisp and tart with many flavors and some nice complexity. It's fruity and herbaceous all at the same time.

The 2009 Villa Creek White from Paseo Robles at $24 was my other favorite white. A blend of grenache blanc, roussance and picpoul blanc. This wine was well balanced and well rounded. This is a white rhone varietal instead of a spanish blend but I suppose because of the granache blanc it qualified to be poured at the TAPAS tasting.

After tasting whites I turned to the reds. The most common Spanish and Portugese red varietal is Tempranillo which I am not usually a fan of because of it's tobacco and leathery taste which typically overpowers any fruitiness. Tempranillo is a ruby red color and grows best in high altitudes . While Tempranillo can grow in hot climates, the ones I seem to like best are grown in cooler climates as they tend to have more balance, elegance & fruitiness.

Abacela Winery from Oregon poured the only 100% Tempranillos at the tasting that I liked. The 2007 Tempranillo Cuvee at $20 was low in tannins, easy to drink and the best value of the 3. The 2006 Estate Tempranillo at $35 had big fruit and a nice finish and was my favorite Tempranillo at the tasting. The 2005 Tempranillo Reserve at $45 was a big bold red with fruit and some spice which would be great with food.

Since I am not generally a big fan of Tempranillo (though I was pleasantly surprised by the ones from Abecela), I decided to focus on the other red varietals at the tasting. Silvaspoons of Lodi poured a 2008 Alta Mesa Cellars Tannat at $18 a bottle that was quite tasty and unique. Typically a wine used for blending Tannat has a deep purple color, high tannins and high alcohol but the Alta Mesa wine had nice berry flavors which were given complexity and not overpowered by the tannins in the wine.

Graciano is a varietal that is typically used as part of a rioja blend and is one I had not tried previously. At the tasting there were 2 wines with graciano that I tasted and both were quite good.

The 2006 Graciano from Bodgeas Paseo Robles Winery at $36 a bottle is 100% graciano grapes and had a cherry berry taste with some spice.

The Bokisch 2006 Gracino from Lodi at $21 a bottle is 95% graciano and 5% tempranillo. This wine has a dark inky color and is rich in the mouth with a nice jammy taste complimented with some spicy overtones.

Mourvedre is a wine that although it originated in Spain is usually used in Rhone Varietals and is typically blended with other grapes to provide some structure and earthiness with red berry flavors. When you can find it, 100% Mourvedre is a real treat.

Villa Creek poured 3 red wines at the tasting that I really liked. The 2007 Mas de Maha from Paseo Robles at $35 a bottle that is 60% Tempranillo, 30% Granache and 10% Mouvedre and tasted of dark fruit and spice and was the best Tempranillo blend I had at the tasting. La Botta from Paseo Robles at $4o a bottle a blend of 50% Mouvedre and 50% Granache, has a nice fruity and earthy balance with great complexity. Finally, the 2007 Damas Noir from Paseo Robles at $40 is rich and bold fruit with a nice spice compliment and a great finish.

The TAPAS tasting gave me a chance to taste some new varietals, find some Tempranillo I actually enjoyed and to confirm that I prefer blends in Spanish wines and wines made in the Rhone style.

Wine tasting is all about trying new things and deciding what tastes good to you. Speaking of which, if you want the chance to come out and taste some wines there are several events coming up in San Francisco. This Sat June 12 is Golden Glass and June 26 is Pinot Days both at Fort Mason so come join me. If you can't make it, don't worry, I will be providing a full write up on both events. Salut!

Uncorked Wine Tasting Ghirardelli

Yesterday was Ghirardelli's annual wine tasting event called Uncorked. An outdoor wine tasting with music, vendors and cooking demonstrations that is a benefit for La Cocina. Uncorked is always a good time, especially when the weather is nice. Last year it was so hot I only tasted white wine, this year it was windy and a bit cool so I only tasted the red wines.

Within Ghirardelli Square itself there were wineries that are part of the 360 Collective an on site tasting room . On Jefferson Street, below the square with a lovely view of acquatic park were other sponsor wineries and vendors. Sadly missing this year was Cost Plus who usually has yummy samples and coupons for their store (last year they had my favorite English candy bar called Crunchie)

This year, the crowd appeared much younger than in years past. There were lots of people in their twenties and many novice or new wine drinkers. There also was a Sudwerk beer tent which had a line the entire event. The beauty of wine events though is that you typically get a mix of younger and older people and those who know about wine and those who don't.

The wineries that poured were a mix of small production family vineyards and corporate owned wineries and there were wines at all price points from entry level to high end.

A new winery that I discovered was Berryessa Gap in Winters. A family owned winery with lots of varietals at good value. Their Tempranillo and Zinfandel won medals at the SF Chronicle Wine Tasting this year but in my opinion their best wine was the 2006 Petite Syrah at $16 a bottle. Fruity with a hint of earthiness, this wine was full bodied and really delivered.

Benovia was another family owned winery. Benovia is on the Russian River. They are only on their third production of wine and are pretty small making just 2500-3000 cases a year They poured a well balanced Pinot Noir that was $45 a bottle and was in the true Russian River style of Pinot Noir.

Vitus from Napa poured an 06 and an 07 Cabernet Sauvignon. The 06 was $60 a bottle and the 07 $45. I prefered the 07 finding it to have a nice melange of flavors and a good finish which should only get better with age.

Deerfield Ranch from Sonoma uses grapes from organic and sustainable vineyards. They had a large selection of wines and they were poured by a funny and polite southern guy. Although he told me they were best know for their Zinfandel, my favorite of their wines was their 2005 Cabernet at $35 a bottle. They also had a Merlot Cuvee at $26 which was fruity, and earthy with body and an 06 Red Blend called Red Rex at $28 which provided an interesting mix of flavors on the palate.

Overall, it was a lovely afternoon spent outside drinking wine with friends. Last year it was too hot and this year it was too cold, so hopefully next year will be just right?

Red or White?

When drinking wine the first thing you need to decide is whether you want to drink red wine or white wine.

Generally speaking red wine is heavier and has a stronger flavor then white wine because it has tannins. Tannins are caused by the skins, seeds and stems of grapes that are left in with the juice of the grapes as they ferment. The tannins in red wine generally provide more complexity and result in a heavier taste. Tannins are also what allow red wines to age and last longer in the bottle and they give red wine it’s color.

Red wines are typically made with the juice and skins of red or dark colored grapes while white wines are made with white or green lighter colored grapes. Some white wines are made of darker grapes but the skins are not used so they retain a light color since they are made only with the pulp of the grape.

White wines are generally fruitier, crisper and sweeter than red wines though they can be dry or oaky. Red wines typically have more texture and depth. Usually, when people first start to drink wine they begin with white and then progress to red.

The general rule of thumb is if you are eating fish or chicken or something light and delicate in flavor then you should drink white wine and if you are eating something heavier like beef, lamb strong cheese or something with strong flavor then you should go with red.

If you are drinking wine on it's own then you may also want to take into account the time of day, temperature or even your mood. When it is hot outside, white wine is generally preferable because it is lighter and typically tastes best when chilled. If you are drinking during the day you may prefer white as it is lighter and often has less alcohol. Red wine on the other hand is usually best enjoyed near room temperature. Red wine is heavier and usually has more alcohol than white wine so it may be better on a cold day and in the afternoon or evening.

If you are drinking wine with food you will want the wine to compliment not overpower the food. This can be accomplished not only by deciding whether you will drink red or white wine but also by paying attention to the varietal you select to drink.

Pinot Gris and Savignon Blanc are white wines typically lighter in flavor. Chardonnay on the other hand can have more depth and flavor. Pinot Noir is typically a lighter red wine, Merlot more medium bodied while Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon are heavier reds.

The truth is, you should drink what you like, when you like, with what you want. The most important thing is to just enjoy what you are drinking! Salut

Cabernet Tasting at the Bentley Reserve

This afternoon I tasted Cabernet Sauvignon from a variety of CA vineyards at a Cabernet barrel tasting. The annual event is sponsored by the California Cabernet society to showcase barrel samples from the most recent vintage.

All of the wineries had 2009 barrel tastings which were honestly not really drinkable because Cabernet needs to mature and age to taste good but, with a bit of imagination, the barrel tastings provide insight into what the wines may taste like once they develop and age.

In addition to the barrel samples, the wineries all had current releases which were drinkable and in some cases delicious and provided further insight into what the barrel samples would likely become.

Cabernet Sauvignon is generally a fuller bodied wine with tannins and complexity meant to be aged and meant to be enjoyed with food. Cabernet Sauvignon is especially good with a juicy steak or any kind of red meat and they did have some yummy marinated flank steak at the tasting to accompany the wines along with some strong cheeses.

The wines at the tasting varied in price from $45 to $150 a bottle (at least those I tasted) and varied from big corporate to small family owned wineries. These wines are not meant for the entry level consumer but for people who know and can appreciate good wine and who are willing to pay for it.

The best high end wine in my opinion was the Carter 2007 Coliseum Block Cabernet at $125 a bottle. A small production wine that delivers a big powerful and well balanced taste. A close second in the high end category was the Charles Krug 2006 limited edition at $100 a bottle. This wine is a cabernet of 10 different clones it is a limited edition and quite tasty. The third best high end wine in my opinion was Cliff Lede 2006 Staggs Leap Poetry Vineyard Cabernet at $150 a bottle. This wine is made from grapes on a steep hillside which provide nice complexity with a good finish.

Rocca at $75 was far and away the best mid-range wine and gave the high end Cabernets a good run for their money. Made by a young winemaker of Italian origin Paul Colantuuori, the wine is supple and well balanced with nice structure. This wine won a well deserved double gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. I suspect that as Paul gains notoriety, the price of this wine may sadly increase, though I hope I am wrong!

At the lower end in price, Varozza Vineyard's 06 Cabernet was my definite favorite. A family owned vineyard around since 1913, the original owner's grandson Jack and his wife Dianna have again begun to produce wines after a break in production in 1946 with the death of Joseph Varozza. The wine is tasty, well crafted and at $45 a good value. ZD's 2006 Cabernet at $50 a bottle was also tasty and in my opinion tasted like a more expensive wine.

All in all a fun afternoon and a great chance to taste some high end Cabs with an interesting and diverse group of people.

How to Pick a Good Inexpensive Wine

I am often asked by friends how to pick a good wine. Generally speaking, you get what you pay for and so you can use price as a basic guide to determine which wines to pick. Usually wines can be divided into price point categories. Under $8, $8-15, $15-20, $20-$30, $30-$50 and $50 and above.

The more you spend typically the better a wine is but sometimes small production wines are more expensive as a result of higher costs and they are not necessarily better wines.

For me, the fun part of being a wine connoisseur is finding a wine that I think is delicious that is also a good value.

Trader Joe's revolutionized the concept of cheap wine selling bottles of Charles Shaw at $1.99 in CA and $2.99 outside of CA. The wine has come to be known as two buck chuck and is a huge seller. Sure the wine is drinkable and it's cheap but everyone knows it's $1.99 so how do you pick a wine that is good but not look like a cheapskate?

First of all, if you go to lesser known places you can get good wine at lower prices. Pinot Noir in CA from the Russian River is tasty but to get anything halfway decent you need to spend at least $25 a bottle. If you buy Oregon Pinot Noir though you can find some great wines in the $15-$20 range. Wines from Australia and New Zealand and South America are a good value because they are considered new comers or New World Wines.

Another way to find a good value is to pick or try a lesser known varietal. Carmenere from Chile, Nero D'avola from Sicily, Malbec from Argentina.

White wines are generally less expensive than red wines and the price range varies for each varietal. Cabernet is usually more expensive than Merlot. Chardonnay more expensive than Pinot Gris.

Often you can find wines from a well known region but a smaller or lesser know winery so they will be less expensive or you can buy wines from a wineries second label. These off label wines are usually made with grapes considered not good enough for a winery's premium label but they are often great wines especially if what you are after is value. Another option for inexpensive but good wine is wine made from sourced grapes. In years when there is a surplus of grapes many winemakers will buy grapes and make their own wines. They have no wineries and so their costs are lower and you can often get some great wines at great values

The other thing to keep in mind is that at the lower end of the price range a few dollars can make a lot of difference in the kind of wine you get. If you pay more than $8 versus less than $8 you will most likely end up with a much much better wine. That's not to say you can't find good wines under $8 but as a general rule if you are just starting out drinking wine try to stick with the $8-$15 range.